Jacques Lameloise : les pieds sur terre, la toque dans les étoiles…
« Chez nous, aucun mot n’est trop fort lorsqu’il s’agit d’honorer celui ou celle que l’on reçoit… » Expression qui s’entretient de père en fils dans la famille Lameloise, célèbre pour sa dynastie de chefs cuisiniers hors pairs. Impossible pour moi de ne pas connaître Jacques Lameloise, étant devenue une fille adoptive de la Bourgogne depuis huit ans.
Bien connu de toutes les fines bouches de France, Jacques Lameloise a fait revivre un ancien relais de poste datant du 15ème siècle dans le village de Chagny en Saône et Loire. Perpétuant le talent et l’exigence gastronomique de son père Jean et de son grand-père Pierre lequel dénonçait au début du siècle que « les piètres agapes modernes où les estomacs débilisés s’effarent devant les plats de haute envergure »( !) Jacques Lameloise s’est vu décoré de sa deuxième étoile Michelin en 1974 et de sa troisième en 1979 !
Si Jacques Lameloise est devenu un chef tri-étoilé aussi jeune, c’est que son style de cuisine et son caractère passionné ont conquis plus d’un palais exigeant. Et pour cause ! En 2007, Jacques Lameloise a de nouveau été récompensé de 3 étoiles… Ses spécialités ? Des raviolis d’escargots de bourgogne dans leur bouillon d’ail doux, le pigeonneau rôti à l’émiettée de truffes, le millefeuille de filet de bœuf et foie gras agrémenté de pommes de terre soufflées… Vous restez encore sur votre faim ? Un millefeuille de homard aux tomates pressées ou de fines feuilles craquantes au caramel et chocolat…
Comme toute histoire – même gustative – a une fin, Jacques Lameloise comme Alain Sanderens, Lucas Carton ou Olivier Roellinger, a rendu ses étoiles, las de la course aux investissements et de la pression inhérente. C’est désormais Frédéric Lamy, son neveu, qui remet le couvert, le chef de cuisine Eric Pras restant aux fourneaux. Mais n’ayez crainte, l’ombre de Jacques Lameloise ne sera jamais bien loin, ce dernier s’étant engagé à accompagner son successeur en douceur(s)…
Envie d’exciter vos papilles ? http://www.lameloise.fr/
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